Today the Viking Star brought us to the port city of Livorno. Livorno is primarily a commercial port, but it serves as a gateway port for Tuscany, Florence and Pisa. We chose to head to Pisa hoping to avoid the crowds of Florence. I think we made a good choice.
So let’s get right to it. Everyone goes to Pisa to see the leaning tower. It does, in fact, have a significant off-kilter list. Lesser known facts: 1) there are over 280 steps to the top, 2) if you start up the staircase to the top, you have to go all the way because the downward staircase can only be accessed from the top, and 3) as you proceed up the stairs, the lean of the tower messes with your balance and footing on the stairs. For all of these reasons, plus my acrophobia I chose not to take in the view from the top of the tower.
Only 40 people are allowed at the top at a time. Notice that they tended to cluster along the high side. Too easy to topple off of the low side, perhaps?
Inside the protective walls of the Piazza dei Miracoli there are 3 structures – the cathedral, the baptistry, and the bell tower. Typically these 3 components are encompassed in a single building. Had they attached the bell tower in Pisa to the cathedral it may have had sufficient foundational support to keep it from leaning. Live and learn.
The baptistery itself monumental – the largest in Italy. They must have been baptizing a lot of souls back in the 14th century when it was completed. Originally the baptistry dome was open to the sky without the cupola. The baptismal font lies directly below the cupola and would fill with rain water. The floors of the baptistry slope slightly from the center toward the outer walls where there are drains to carry excess rain water into a cistern. There are drain spouts extending from the circumference of the dome that direct the water away from the walls and into a collection system on the ground that rings the baptistry. That water also flows into the cistern. Very ingenious for the architect of the 12th century that designed the building. It took over 200 years to complete it.
An Overview of Piazza dei Miracoli
Pisa was really the first opportunity that we had to simply wander about to get a flavor of the city. Because it was Easter the crowds were probably larger than normal, but we walked the streets and stopped for gelato. But before we departed the Piazza dei Miracoli Betty had to see if she, too, was strong enough to straighten out the Tower of Pisa.
One of the things that I enjoy most about Italy are the differences in scale between the monuments, the cathedrals, the fountains, the plazas and the transportation options. Small scooters, bicycles, surrey bikes and pedestrians are all tolerated. Cars are generally small – Fiats and Smart Cars easily (and daringly) maneuver around tourist busses and large limo vans.

Surrey bikes were available to rent in Pisa. There are 2, 4 and 6 person models available. All riders have the ability to pedal. Can you imagine one of these on a city street in the US?

This restuarant delivery van is sized according to its need. It is basically a 3 wheeled scooter. Delivery driver, cargo space, no passengers, no frills.
Street Scenes from Pisa
Update
I forgot to include one of the coolest parts of our walk through Pisa. This lamb. Its wool is made of pasta. There was a greeter standing nearby. When a small dog would pass by (BTW – they are all small dogs in Italy) she would nonchalantly nudge the lamb toward the dog with her foot. Small dogs, being small dogs, would erupt into a barking frenzy, lunging toward the lamb. The dog walkers were appropriately mortified at the behavior of their out-of-control pooches. Meanwhile the osteria lady attracted a great deal of attention to the specials of the day – which I assume must have included a pasta dish with lamb.






I think I too would pass on a trip to the top of the tower.