Monterosso al Mare – The village which was our home in Cinque Terre
Olive groves and vineyards above Monterosso.
The villages of the Cinque Terre region are unbelievable in so many ways. Some are nestled into small coves along the Mediterranean coast. Some are perched atop high hills and bluffs towering above the coastline. Others seem to be precariously cemented to sheer cliff faces. Viewed from the sea the soft pastel colors of the villages stand in stark contrast against the cobalt waters of the Mediterranean.
Riomaggiore – Hanging on the rocks above the Mediterranean.
Our hotel in Cinque Terre was in Monterosso al Mare. We arrived by car, unloaded our luggage and headed into Monterosso on foot trailing our luggage behind us. Vehicles are not allowed in the village so our trek to the hotel was about 100 meters. After checking in to the Hotel Souvenir (cute name for a tourist destination, don’t you think?) we regrouped and headed off to explore the village. We found a small bar with street side tables and sat down to enjoy a beer and a glass of wine. Caper berries, nuts and olives came gratis to accompany our drinks. Italians equate wine with food. You can’t fully appreciate one without the other. Smart people!
Seaside view of Vernazza
View of Doria Castle from above Vernazza. Since we spent our time climbing to get the view we did not ave time to visit the castle.
Our view from above Vernazza
For serious hikers, there are trails linking many of the villages in Cinque Terre. Pamela, our tour leader, warned us that the viability of travel to other villages via the trails should be confirmed with the local authorities before setting out. Some of the trails were swept away by mudslides several years ago and have not been repaired.
Sunday morning we boarded a ferry to travel from village to village along the coast. It was a weekend before a national holiday so ferry traffic was heavy with both foreign and Italian tourists.
Italians are known for their style! This cutie was no exception.
But the coastline views of the villages from a half mile off the Mediterranean coast were spectacular. The blue sky above the hillside – the blue Mediterranean waters between the ferry and the shore provided a perfect photographic frame for the villages of Cinque Terre.
In Vernazza we climbed a steep path that took us well above the village proper. From that vantage point we were able to view the village, the castle, and the harbor below. Unfortunately, it left us little time to explore the castle, the Santa Margherita d’Antiochia Church, or the tourist focused shops.
Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia clock tower at Vernazza. The church was built in 1318.
Our view from above Vernazza
We ended our day in the village of Porto Venere, where a pre-Christian temple to the Roman goddess, Venus, was overbuilt by the Catholic Church. From the Mediterranean vantage point, Porto Venere is nowhere near as visually engaging as the other gems of Cinque Terre. The churches and fortifications facing the sea are built of gray stone. The pastel hues for which Cinque Terre is revered seem to have been forgotten. But the views from those high fortifications are spectacular.
Porto Venere
View of the Mediterranean from the cliffs above Porto Venere
In Porto Venere we were treated to a traditional Italian Sunday dinner. We started with the first course about 1:30 and finished with the 5th course around – hmmm, I can’t seem to remember. Too much wine! But I do remember the restaurant – Trattoria Le Tre Torri. The three towers (torri) referenced in the restaurant’s name are the three primary landmarks of Porto Venere.
Trattoria le Tre Torri in Porto Venere
But not everyone is impressed with Conquer Terre. Although you would be hard pressed to find an Italian or an international tourist who was not enchanted. Children – not so much!
Ho-hum! Not all tourists are impressed with the scenic views of Cinque Terre.